Category Archives: Family

N5UJB – Silent Key Alert

Jim – Jimmy Wayne “N5UJB” Arterberry Sr. 77, of Lawton, Oklahoma went to his heavenly home on Tuesday, Feb. 9, 2016.

Jim was not only my Amateur Radio Elmer and mentor, Jim was most of all my friend.
I shall miss his presents in my life.

Funeral service will be at 11 a.m. Saturday, Feb. 13, 2016, at Post Oak Mennonite Brethren Church, Indiahoma, Oklahoma.

Jimmy was born in Indiahoma on May 4, 1938.
Jimmy was a member and former president/test administrator of the Lawton Fort Sill Amateur Radio Club.

Jimmy is survived by his wife, Beatrice “Sue” Arterberry, and daughter, Kathy D. Daniel, both of the home; sons: Jimmy W. Arterberry Jr. of Medicine Park; and Ricky D. Arterberry of Indiahoma.
Sisters: Minnie Rhodes of Cache; Dodie Farrell of Lawton; Linda Carol Carter of Chickasha; Liz Adamson of Lawton; stepbrother, Frankie Barkley Jr. of Texas; and stepsister, Penny Grooms of Rush Springs; brothers-in-law and Sisters-in-law: Howard and Susie Roach of Cache; Harley Roach of Indiahoma; Arlene Wilson and Linda Roach of Indiahoma; and Virgie Kassanavoid of Cache; Six grandchildren: Vanessa Huff, Steven Arterberry, Ricky Arterberry Jr., Joshua Arterberry, Brook Robello, Zack Daniel
Eleven great grandchildren: Faith, Caleb, Zoey, Lincoln, Jackson, Aspynn, Hinley, Kixx, Kendall, Kameron, and Savannah.

Dirty Bugs – Give Them A Soapy Bath

DIY-key latch DIY door latch using an unused house door key.

Not all soap is created equal for soap to most effective it must contain Detergent. Many of the dish washing soaps no longer contain detergent and are far less effective in killing / removing insects from your garden plants. I use original formula Blue Dawn dish soap, it has worked well for me in the past.
Read the label carefully before investing your time and effort in treating you garden for insect pest by soap washing. Soap without detergents is not very effective.

You will find a number of soaps formulated for insect control at your local nursery. These products are most times expensive and may not be worth the investment.

I have not used dog / pet soaps but have been told that they work well when used as an insect killer / removal plant washing mix. I would use caution when selecting a pet soap. Read the label ingredients carefully. Pet soaps may very well contain chemicals that you do not want in your vegetable garden.


Not only will soap wash away and kill many garden pest it will also help your soil absorb water more effectively by breaking down soil surface tension allowing water to penetrate your soil with less wasted run off water. I have found that using 1/4 cup of Blue Dawn dish per gallon of water works very well in insect control.
Hint: Fill your container with water ‘Before’ adding the soap.

Whether you use a simple soapy water spray or a commercial store bought insecticide, Always carefully wash all garden vegetables under cool running water before feeding them to your family.

Colorado State University has a good fact sheet on using soap for insect control. Insect Control: Soaps and Detergents

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USDA Hardness Zone 6 & 7, Up Coming Projects

Only 40 more days of Winter ‘with luck’ , Equinox (Spring) arrives on my Tiny Farm Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 11:30 PM CDT. My last average Frost date is April 10th.
As of this morning my 2 inch and 4 inch soil temperatures were 45F and 46F. That is the signal that I can soon safely start putting out Garlic and Onion sets. Start planting Lettuce, Peas, Radish, Turnips, Spinach and Beet seed can be planted.

If the air temperature gets warm enough I will venture out into the garden and finish fall clean up. I still have plant litter to burn and some materials to be put on the compost pile. Gas up the tiller and ready seed beds for planting this springs vegetable crops.

As a side note, I discovered 4 potato’s sprouting in my potato bin. My soil is not well suited for growing potato’s but I do have four 6 gallon buckets that will be recycled and used as potato growing containers this year.
I know Master Gardeners say “don’t plant sprouting supermarket potato’s.” However it’s either plant them or they will be chicken food!
Smiling, hard to find anything better than fresh new potato’s to compliment a mess of fresh picked peas or beans.

Projects that may not be on your radar.
Zone 6
* Sow seeds in starter pots for Spring planting.
* Prune fruit/nut trees, grape vines, rose bushes and berry patches to remove winter damage.
* Feed cool-season lawns.
** If you use a preeminence lawn treatment to prevent weed seed from germinating February is a good time to make that treatment. Carefully follow package instruction for proper application.
* Removing winter mulch and lightly cultivating soil.
* Sow seeds for cool weather vegetables (late February to mid-March)
* Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors.
* Divide and replant summer and fall blooming perennials(when soil is warm enough to be easy to work).
* Plant bare root and container roses, trees and fruiting vines.

Zone 7
* Sow seeds of warm-season annuals in starter pots.
* Set out summer flowering bulbs
* Plant fall blooming bulbs
* Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare root fruit trees and fruiting vines.
* Apply dormant spray to fruit trees before buds swell.
* Spray apples, peaches, and pears that have been affected with canker problems.
* Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables(check your soil temperature).
* Sow seeds for frost tolerant perennials.
* Sow seeds for hardy perennials.
* Plant container, balled-and-burlappedand bare-root trees, shrubs, vines and roses.
* Plant summer blooming shrubs and vines.
* Plant frost tolerant trees.
* Plant conifers and broad-leaf evergreens.

Turn the compost pile, add any soiled hay, grass, bedding and manure mulch which was removed from livestock barns, shelters, rabbit hutches and poultry coops. Don’t have a compost pile! Now is a good time to start one.

Clean and disinfect livestock barns, sheds, rabbit hutches and poultry coops. Don’t forget to disinfect water and feed containers. Clean and disinfect nest boxes add new nesting materials to nest boxes. If necessary spray inside walls, floor, ceiling, nest boxes and roost to control mites.

Repair winter damaged fences and gates. Check barns, sheds, hutches and coops for winter damage, repair as necessary.

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USA Wheat Production – Break Even Price / Bushels Per-Acre

Any consumer that holds onto the belief that farmers are getting rich feeding America should know that this is a myth.

The figures listed are for the 2015 wheat growing season.
There are two numbers that you should be carefully comparing.
The ‘Average’ bushels per-acre harvested and the number of bushels per-acre to reach the break even price.

* USDA Said “A December 2015 price range of $4.80-$5.20 /bu was forecast with a midpoint of $5.00 /bu, the lowest level since $4.87 /bu in 2009.

* USDA U.S. Wheat Forecast for 2016/17: Projected yields of 45.9 bu/acre. U.S. wheat prices are projected to be $4.40 /bu – down from $5.00 /bu in 2015/16.

Next time one of your friends whine about the cost of flour or bread, remind them flour and bread cost Is Not Caused By The American Farmer.
They should turn their anger and questions to Mega companies like General Mills, Proctor and Gamble, Gold Metal, Pillsbury, Target and Walmart stores.

Table. 1. Cost of production, estimated price, and break-even points for crops grown in southwest Nebraska and the Panhandle.  (Source: For left four columns is UNL Crop Production Budgets)
Budget Cost per Acre Yield Break-even Price/Unit Estimated Price Break-even Yield (bu)
Southwest
Wheat, No-Till after Row Crop $283.47 45 bu $6.30 $5.502 51.52
Wheat, No-Till before Corn, 2 Crops in 3 years $352.27 60 bu $5.87 $5.502 64.03
Panhandle
Wheat, No-Till Fallow, 1 Crop in 2 Years $288.83 55 bu $5.25 $5.522 52.31
Wheat, Stubble Mulch Fallow, 1 Crop in 2 Years $300.28 50 bu $6.01 $5.522 54.38
Wheat, Clean Till Fallow, 1 Crop in 2 Years $287.73 45 bu $6.39 $5.522 52.11
Wheat, No-Till after Beans, Pivot Irrigated $508.19 90 bu $5.65 $5.732 88.66

Spring Is Very Near

Knowing your last ‘Normal’ Spring frost / freeze date is imperative before you start planting flower and vegetable seed or setting out seedlings. Seed and seedlings planted to early will not germinate well and seedlings may be killed by a hard frost / freeze.

Grin … I know some of us still havent finished our Fall prepration project(s).
Things like:
Gasoline powered equipment, lawn mowers, weed eaters, leaf blowers, tillers and such need.
* Clean equipment removing dirt, grease and spilled oil.
* Fuel drained or at least fuel stabilizer added to fuel tanks.
* Fuel filters replaced.
* Oil drained, oil and filters replaced.
* Cutting blades removed, inspected and sharpened or replaced.

* Review your vegetable and flower garden plans.
When reviewing your garden catalogs for new vegetable/flower varieties to try, an important consideration is improved insect and/or disease resistance. Watch also for drought tolerant and bush types.

* Prune house plants to keep them shapely. Pinch back new growth to promote bushy plants. Check house plants closely for insect infestations.
Quarantine gift plants until you determine that they are not harboring disease or insect pests.

* House plants with large leaves and smooth foliage, such as philodendrons, dracaena and rubber plant benefit if their leaves are washed to remove dust and grime, washing helps keep the leaf pores open.

* Clean crusty clay and plastic pots, add one cup each of white vinegar and household bleach to a gallon of warm water and soak the pots. For heavily crusted pots, scrub with a steel wool pad after soaking for 12 hours.
Rinse well in warm clear water. Allow pots to air dry, exposing them to direct sun light to dry is helpful in killing bacteria.

* Now is a good time to locate and purchase a ton or two of well rotted animal manure or well composted plant based compost to be tilled into your Spring garden plot.

cold frames and hotbeds Yes I do know (I do have a calendar) it’s still mid-winter in North America. However now is a good time to undertake a easy useful project.
It’s time to be building your cold frame(s) and hotbed(s) to get a head start on Spring Gardening and to extend your gardening season well into the winter months. Extension Horticulture Specialist, Virginia Tech get the most out of a garden, you can extend the growing season by sheltering plants from cold weather both in early spring and during the fall.
University of Missouri Department of Horticulture Building and Using Hotbeds and Cold frames.
Even a small cold frame or hotbed can provide your family with a lot of fresh healthy salad greens and cooking herbs this winter. There’s something magical about the taste of your own fresh home grown salad.

Construction Plan for an easy to build Hot Bed.

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EARTH KIND – What’s This All About?

Earth Kind is not what I first thought. It’s not an over the top, radical plan to save planet Earth in an over the top, unrealistic, unsustainable plan.

Earth Kind it turns out is a common sense approach to feeding your family home grown healthy food while protecting an enhancing out environment.

Texas Cooperative Extension has implemented the EARTH-KIND program[#1]. This program combines the best organic and traditional gardening principles to create a new horticultural system, a system based on real world effectiveness and environmental responsibility.

The environment we live in is in a big part the environment made by us, you and I. Each of us is and should be responsible for our own landscapes and gardens. If we do our fair share and practice environmentally responsible landscaping and gardening techniques, a major step will be taken toward ridding the world of the polluting effects of waste and contamination.

Here are a few Earth Kind plans that can be easily implemented in your existing garden landscape.
* Mulch – adding and maintaining a three-inch layer of plant-derived mulch, such as native hardwood, will significantly reduce the amount of water required in the landscape. This is especially true when drip irrigation is placed underneath it. Mulch also helps prevent weeds and erosion, modifies the soil temperature, and serves as continuous supply of organic matter for the soil beneath.
Mulch can easily be added to an existing landscape and may be available free from municipal or utility sites.

* Integrated Pest Management (IPM) This is a balanced approach to pest control that focuses on using cultural, biological, and mechanical control measures.
Under IPM, chemical control is used only as a last resort. Strategies include using pest and disease tolerant plants, preserving pest’s natural enemies, and excluding or physically removing pests.
Chemical treatments are selected carefully and used only when pest populations warrant such measures.
In the case of chemical control, select the product that is least toxic, but yet still effective, and avoid using broad-spectrum insecticides that also kill
beneficials.

* Composting can convert yard waste such as leaves, grass clippings, and pruning waste into compost, rather than paying to have it removed and added to a land fill.
A properly managed compost pile can produce a valuable soil amendment in one to three months and often without disagreeable odors.
Compost is derived from once-living material so it contains most of the nutrients that plants need in a slow-release form, it improves soil structure, and best of all it is free.

* Preparing your planting areas. Preparing the soil properly can drastically reduce the need for fertilizers in both new and existing beds.
It can also reduce disease problems and the amount of water required.
Incorporating at least 3 inches of finished, plant-derived compost into the soil will improve the nutrient and water holding capacity in sandy soils and improve drainage in clay.
Compost supplies nutrients slowly, encourages beneficial soil microorganisms, and allows roots to penetrate deeper for greater water uptake.
Raised beds approximately 12 inches high and crowned in the center will greatly
improve plant performance where soils drain poorly.

[#1]Earth-Kind Gardening Index This is an extensive and in my humble opinion a must have Gardening Reference Document.

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Garden Pest Control – Simple and Easy

Buy and Grow vigorous, healthy plants, they will tolerate a few pest better than a plant that is weak, suffering from low fertility, dry stress or that have been over watered.

Stressed plants are more likely to be attacked by insects and suffer more serious damage. Too much or too little water or fertilizer can weaken plants. Pay close attention to your soil, adding lots of organic matter to build good structure, drainage, and water holding capacity. Few plants like their roots setting in water logged soil.
Make sure your soil pH is within the range that your plants need.
Thin plants to recommended spacing so there is ample air flow around plants and keep weeds in check to reduce competition between desirable plants and weeds.

Rotate crops, planting the same crop in the same place year after year can increase pest populations especially populations of soil dwelling insects such as grubs, wireworms, and maggots.

Choose your garden plant varieties carefully. Choose varieties recommended for your area and look for varieties that are resistant to pests you know are a problem in your growing area. For example, butternut squash is resistant to squash vine borer.

Good garden sanitation will go a long way in controlling many pests that overwinter on weeds or plant debris in or near the garden. Remove weeds and organic mulches, which can provide homes for insects, slugs, and snails.

Use barriers to prevent cutworm damage, plant transplants inside collars made from cardboard, roofing paper, or disposable cups with their bottoms removed. The collars should be about 4 inches tall and buried 2 inches into the soil. Squares of carpeting or tar-paper placed securely around young cabbage family plants can prevent cabbage maggot flies from laying eggs at the base of the plants.

Using floating row covers allow air, light, and water through to plants, but keep pest far away from your vegetable plants. Place covers over young crops until they are large enough to fend off pests themselves, or until the pest is no longer around. Use of row hoops is an easy way to maximize the benefits of row covers. Anchor row covers securely with soil, wood, special anchoring pins, or other means so that pests can’t sneak in.

Remove covers about 4 to 6 weeks into the season before temperatures under the covers become too hot for your vegetable crops.
Crops like cucumbers, eggplants, melons, and squash need pollinating insects to set fruit, so remove row covers before plants begin to flower.
Floating row covers are made from spun polyester or other synthetics and are reusable.
Hint: You can also use cheesecloth as a floating row cover.

Take advantage of natural destructive insect enemies. Conserve insects that prey on or parasitize pests. Small wasps, for example, parasitize aphids, leaving bloated gold to bronze “mummies.” Immature lady beetles and lacewings, which look like tiny alligators, also frequent gardens. Other “beneficial insects” include spiders, predatory mites, predatory bugs, predatory flies, and ground beetles.

Introducing predators, parasites, or diseases that kill pests is becoming more practical as we learn more about managing pests. Remember, however, that beneficial insects will move elsewhere if there aren’t enough pests to feed on.

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Butterflies And Worms In The Garden

For the record I do not intentionally attempt to attract Butterflies to my garden. You see a beautiful little flying insect fluttering around your garden.
I see a damn pest that is looking for a place to lay her eggs that will hatch and become destructive, garden plant eaters! Eating my tomato, pepper, squash and cucumber vines!

Keep my idea of Butterflies in mind as you read my posting about attracting Butterflies to your yard and garden.

blue-butterfly To be successful in attracting butterflies to your garden the two things that are a must have, must do.
First selecting and planting the correct plants for feeding Butterflies and their new hatched young caterpillars.
Second most important thing you must do is to provide a proper water source for them to drink without having to leave your garden to find a watering hole.

Plant wild flowers that are native to your area.
Butterflies and native flowering plants have co-evolved over time and depend on each other for survival and reproduction, it is particularly important to plant native flowering plants found growing and adapted to your geographic area.
**Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center has lists of recommended native plants by region and state.

Whether it be native or non-native plant form and color is important. Generally adult butterflies are attracted to red, yellow, orange, pink and purple blossoms that are flat topped or clustered and have short flower tubes. Flowers like morning glory’s and trumpet vines are not good choices to attract Butterflies.

Plant good nectar source flowers in full sun. Your key butterfly nectar source plants should receive full sun from mid-morning to mid-afternoon. Butterfly adults generally feed only in the sun. If sun is limited in your landscape, try adding butterfly nectar sources to the vegetable garden.

Plant wild(native) flowers for continuous blooms. Butterflies need nectar throughout the adult phase of their life. Try to plant so that when one plant stops blooming, another begins.

Attracting Butterflies means saying no to insecticides. Insecticides such as malathion, Sevin, and diazinon that are marketed to kill insects. Don’t use these materials in or near the butterfly garden or better, anywhere on your property. Even “benign” insecticides, such as Bacillus thuringiensis, are lethal to butterflies (while in their caterpillar stage).

Feed your butterfly caterpillars. If you don’t “grow” caterpillars, you will not have many adult Butterflies.
Planting caterpillar food plants in your garden can greatly increase your chances of attracting unusual and uncommon butterflies, while giving you yet another reason to plant an increasing variety of native plants.
In many cases, caterpillars of a Butterfly species feed on only a very limited variety of plants.

Provide a place for butterflies to rest. Butterflies need sun for orientation and to warm their wings for flight. Place flat rocks in your garden to provide space for butterflies to rest and warm in the sun.

Give them a place for puddling(a water source). Butterflies often congregate on wet sand and mud (puddling). Drinking water and extracting minerals from damp puddles. Place coarse sand in a shallow pan and then insert the pan in the soil of your Butterfly garden. Make sure to keep the sand moist.
A thin sponge placed in a shallow water dish will also work as a water source for your Butterflies. Butterflies Do Not Like getting their feet wet.

Common NameFood Source
Acmon Blue – buckwheat, lupines, milkvetch
American Painted Lady – cudweed, everlast
Baird’s Swallowtail – dragon sagebrush
Black Swallowtail – parsley, dill, fennel, common rue
Coral Hairstreak – wild black cherry, American and chickasaw plum, black chokeberry
Dun Skipper – sedges, grasses including purpletop
Eastern Tiger Swallowtail – wild black cherry, ash, tulip tree, willow, sweetbay, basswood
Giant Swallowtail – prickly ash, citrus, common rue, hoptree, gas plant, torchwood
Gray Comma – gooseberry, azalea, elm
Great Purple Hairstreak – mistletoe
Gulf Fritillary – maypops, other passion vines
Henry’s Elfin – redbud, dahoon and yaupon hollies, maple-leaved viburnum, blueberries
Monarch – milkweeds
Painted Lady (Cosmopolite) – thistles, mallows, nievitas, yellow fiddleneck
Pygmy Blue – saltbush, lamb’s quarters, pigweed
Red Admiral/White Admiral – wild cherries, black oaks, aspens, yellow and black birch
Silver-Spotted Skipper – locusts, wisteria, other legumes
Spicebush Swallowtail – sassafras, spicebush
Sulphurs – clover, peas, vetch, alfalfa, asters
Variegated Fritillary – passion flower, maypop, violets, stonecrop, purslane
Viceroy – willows, cottonwood, aspen
Western Tailed Blue – vetches, milkvetches
Western Tiger Swallowtail – willow, plum, alder, sycamore, hoptree, ash
Woodland Skipper – grasses
Zebra Swallowtail – pawpaw

Hint: Don’t be concerned if you don’t recognize the Butterflies common name. You may know it by a different name.
However, if you don’t recognize the plants it feeds on, this butterfly is likely not to be found in your area.

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Poultry Flock – on your Homestead or in your Back Yard

I WANT TO GROW MORE OF MY OWN FOOD
Can anyone tell me where I can buy ‘Bacon Seed’

Hint: One(1) hen will on average lay one(1) egg every 27 hours. Two hens produce more than a dozen eggs a week. You do the math, how many hens does your family need to supply all the eggs your family actually consume.

Chicken chicks, Turkey poults, Ducklings and Goslings will soon be arriving at your local farm store. Second choice is to mail order your flock from a reliable hatchery.

There are hundreds of breeds of Chickens, Ducks, Geese and Turkeys. I will ‘Only’ discuss the breeds that I commonly raise and have had good success surviving Oklahoma’s hot dry summers and cold windy winters.

Chicks will start being available from about the third week of February.
Duck will start being available from about the first week of February.
Geese will start being available from about the last week of March.

There are a few breeds that are on the top of many growers must have list.

Chickens: White leghorns of Fog Horn Leghorn fame, are the choice of commercial egg producing farms.
white leghorn Type: White Leghorn
Egg Color: white, Egg Size: extra large, Egg Production: excellent
Meat Production: fair, Heat/cold Tolerance: Good
Disposition: poor, Weeks to Maturity: 18, Free-range: good
Will not go broody
Male Mature Weight: 6 lbs, Female Mature Weight: 4.5 lbs or less.

Rgode island Type: Rhode red, Egg Color: brown, Egg Size: extra large,
Egg Production: excellent, Heat/cold Tolerance: good
Disposition: good, Weeks to Maturity: 19, Free-range: good
Will not go broody, Bird Size: extra large
Male Mature Weight: 8.5 lbs, Female Mature Weight: 6.5 lbs or less

barred rock Type: Barred rock, Egg Color: brown, Egg Size: large
Egg Production: excellent, Meat Production: excellent
Heat/cold Tolerance: good, Disposition: good, Weeks to Maturity: 20
Free-range: good, Not very likely to go broody, Bird Size: large
Male Mature Weight: 9.5 lbs, Female Mature Weight: 7.5 lbs

Black Australorps Type: Black Australorps, Egg Color: brown, Egg Size: large
Egg Production: excellent, Meat Production: excellent
Heat/cold Tolerance: good, Disposition: good, Weeks to Maturity: 20
Free-range: excellent, Not likely to go broody, Bird Size: extra large
Male Mature Weight: 8.5 lbs, Female Mature Weight: 6.5 lbs

Buff Orpingtons Type: Buff Orpingtons Egg Color: brown, Egg Size: large
Egg Production: execellent Meat Production: excellent, Heat/cold Tolerance: good Disposition: good, Weeks to Maturity: 20, Free-range: good
Very Likely to go broody, Bird Size: extra large
Male Mature Weight: 10 lbs, Female Mature Weight: 8 lbs

Hint: Rooster(s) Are Not required for your pullets/hen to lay eggs. They are Only need if you want or need fertile eggs for hatching replacement chicks.

Ducks not anything like Daffy duck. Ducks are quite birds, can be housed with chickens.
white_pekin Type: White Pekin, excellent meat quality, Egg production excellent
Male and female are creamy white in color, yellow skinned, and very large breasted.
Male mature weight: 10 to 11 pounds, Females mature weigh: 8 to 9 pounds.
The easiest domestic ducks to pick and prepare for eating.

rouen Type: Rouen, attractive colorful ducks bear the name of the French city they originally came from.
Egg production: fair, excellent meat bird,
Male mature weight: 8 to 9 pounds, Females mature weight: 6 to 7 pounds.

Geese Geese are noisy and can become aggressive, can be housed with chickens.
toulouse_goose Type: Toulouse, Taking their name from a city in France, along with White Embdens are the most popular commercial geese sold in America.
Meat production: excellent all-dark meat, Egg production: fair
Male mature weight: 18 to 20 pounds, Female mature weight: 12 to 13 pounds.

Turkeys Are noisy birds and males (Toms) can become aggressive.
Turkeys ‘Should Not’ be housed with chickens.
white_turkey Type: White turkey, most common commercially grown turkey.
Meat production: White broad breasted turkeys are the most popular.
Egg production: poor
Easy to dress
Male mature weight: 45 pounds, Female mature weight 25 pounds.

broadbreasted_bronze_turkey Type: Broadbreasted Bronze
Meat production: excellent, Egg production: poor
Male mature weight 38 pounds, Female mature weight: 22 pounds
Stately lords of the barnyard, metallic sheen of the feathers changes from copper to bronze to burnished gold as the light moves across them. Four feet in length, six feet from wing tip to wing tip.

McMurray Hatchery link is provided as a reference source for learning about poultry breeds,. Here you will find a short description, pictures as well as other useful information on raising your birds.
$10.00 DIY Chicken Plucker
DIY Poultry Brooder

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Food – Herb Companions

In a previous post I lied here is another sort of chart that list what herbs go well with what foods.
It is unlikely that many home gardeners can or will grow a large variety of herbs.
Most gardeners / cooks rely on no more than about 4 herbs we grow for use as fresh herbs and supplement our cooking with dried herbs from our supermarket. Most common home grown herbs As well as what I classify as spices, things like curry, garlic, horseradish, paprika, peppers(chilies) sweet and hot.

The truth is some herbs simply taste better cooked and served with certain foods.

Green Beans — Dill, marjoram, nutmeg, oregano.

Dry Beans — Oregano, marjoram, basil, chives, chili powder, garlic.

Beets — Allspice, nutmeg.

Broccoli — Mustard, nutmeg, sage.

Carrots — Dill, nutmeg, parsley, rosemary, thyme.

Cucumbers — Basil, dill, parsley.

Eggplant — Oregano, parsley.

Mushrooms — Garlic, sage.

Peas — Marjoram, mint.

Potatoes –Chives, cumin, dill, fennel, garlic, mace, rosemary, tarragon.

Squash — Cardamom, ginger, nutmeg.

Tomato — Allspice, basil, cloves, cumin, fennel, marjoram, oregano.

Herb/Spice Seasoning
Beef Bay leaf, cayenne, chili, curry, dill, ginger, mustard, paprika, marjoram, oregano, parsley, rosemary, thyme.
Pork Allspice, basil, cardamom, cloves, curry, ginger, marjoram, mustard, oregano, paprika, parsley, rosemary, sage, savory, thyme.
Lamb Basil, cardamom, curry, dill, mace, marjoram, mint, oregano, paprika, rosemary, turmeric.
Poultry Allspice, anise, bay leaf, cayenne, curry, dill, ginger, marjoram, mustard, nutmeg, paprika, parsley, pepper, sage, savory, tarragon, thyme.
Fish Allspice, anise, basil, bay leaf, cayenne, chives, curry, dill, fennel, ginger, marjoram, nutmeg, oregano, paprika, parsley, tarragon, thyme.
Fruit Allspice, anise, cinnamon, cloves, curry, ginger, mace, mint, nutmeg, pepper.
Vegetables
Rice Chives, cumin, curry, nutmeg, parsley, saffron, turmeric

Herbal Combinations

Herbs can be combined for specific foods. Having premixed combinations on hand speeds cooking and helps assure consistent quality. Some combinations have special names. They can be added directly to the food or wrapped in cheesecloth and removed before serving. The following are suggested herb blends. (Assume equal parts unless specified.)

Food/Term Seasoning Blend
Egg Basil, dill weed (leaves), garlic, parsley.
Fish Basil, bay leaf (crumbled), French tarragon, lemon thyme, parsley (options: fennel, sage, savory).
Poultry Lovage, 2 parts marjoram, 3 parts sage.
Salad Basil, lovage, parsley, French tarragon.
Tomato Sauce 2 parts basil, bay leaf, marjoram, oregano, parsley (options: celery leaves, cloves).
Italian Basil, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, sage, savory, thyme.
Barbeque Cumin, garlic, hot pepper, oregano.
Herb Butter One stick unsalted butter or margarine; 1 to 3 tablespoons dried herbs or 2 to 6 tablespoons fresh herbs (any herb or spice may be used); 1/2 teaspoon lemon juice; and white pepper. Combine ingredients and mix until fluffy. Pack in covered container and let set at least one hour.
Herb Vinegar Heat 1 quart vinegar in an enamel pan, pure it into a vinegar bottle, and add one or several herbs (4 oz. fresh marjoram, sage, tarragon or thyme). Do not let the vinegar boil. Refrigerate for two weeks before using. Any type of vinegar may be used, depending on personal preference.

Useful reference resources:
Food / Herb Guide
What Herb Go’s with What Food
Herbs And The Foods They Go With

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