Tag Archives: manure

USDA Hardness Zone 6 & 7, Up Coming Projects

Only 40 more days of Winter ‘with luck’ , Equinox (Spring) arrives on my Tiny Farm Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 11:30 PM CDT. My last average Frost date is April 10th.
As of this morning my 2 inch and 4 inch soil temperatures were 45F and 46F. That is the signal that I can soon safely start putting out Garlic and Onion sets. Start planting Lettuce, Peas, Radish, Turnips, Spinach and Beet seed can be planted.

If the air temperature gets warm enough I will venture out into the garden and finish fall clean up. I still have plant litter to burn and some materials to be put on the compost pile. Gas up the tiller and ready seed beds for planting this springs vegetable crops.

As a side note, I discovered 4 potato’s sprouting in my potato bin. My soil is not well suited for growing potato’s but I do have four 6 gallon buckets that will be recycled and used as potato growing containers this year.
I know Master Gardeners say “don’t plant sprouting supermarket potato’s.” However it’s either plant them or they will be chicken food!
Smiling, hard to find anything better than fresh new potato’s to compliment a mess of fresh picked peas or beans.

Projects that may not be on your radar.
Zone 6
* Sow seeds in starter pots for Spring planting.
* Prune fruit/nut trees, grape vines, rose bushes and berry patches to remove winter damage.
* Feed cool-season lawns.
** If you use a preeminence lawn treatment to prevent weed seed from germinating February is a good time to make that treatment. Carefully follow package instruction for proper application.
* Removing winter mulch and lightly cultivating soil.
* Sow seeds for cool weather vegetables (late February to mid-March)
* Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors.
* Divide and replant summer and fall blooming perennials(when soil is warm enough to be easy to work).
* Plant bare root and container roses, trees and fruiting vines.

Zone 7
* Sow seeds of warm-season annuals in starter pots.
* Set out summer flowering bulbs
* Plant fall blooming bulbs
* Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare root fruit trees and fruiting vines.
* Apply dormant spray to fruit trees before buds swell.
* Spray apples, peaches, and pears that have been affected with canker problems.
* Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables(check your soil temperature).
* Sow seeds for frost tolerant perennials.
* Sow seeds for hardy perennials.
* Plant container, balled-and-burlappedand bare-root trees, shrubs, vines and roses.
* Plant summer blooming shrubs and vines.
* Plant frost tolerant trees.
* Plant conifers and broad-leaf evergreens.

Turn the compost pile, add any soiled hay, grass, bedding and manure mulch which was removed from livestock barns, shelters, rabbit hutches and poultry coops. Don’t have a compost pile! Now is a good time to start one.

Clean and disinfect livestock barns, sheds, rabbit hutches and poultry coops. Don’t forget to disinfect water and feed containers. Clean and disinfect nest boxes add new nesting materials to nest boxes. If necessary spray inside walls, floor, ceiling, nest boxes and roost to control mites.

Repair winter damaged fences and gates. Check barns, sheds, hutches and coops for winter damage, repair as necessary.

Not from the USA Please leave me comment about your home town and country.
If you see or read something you like Please Share By Re-blogging, Twitter or Email To A Friend.

Why is common sense so uncommon?
Don’t be Shy. Leave me your Comment(s)

Poultry Flock – on your Homestead or in your Back Yard


I WANT TO GROW MORE OF MY OWN FOOD
Can anyone tell me where I can buy ‘Bacon Seed’

Hint: One(1) hen will on average lay one(1) egg every 27 hours. Two hens produce more than a dozen eggs a week. You do the math, how many hens does your family need to supply all the eggs your family actually consume.

Chicken chicks, Turkey poults, Ducklings and Goslings will soon be arriving at your local farm store. Second choice is to mail order your flock from a reliable hatchery.

There are hundreds of breeds of Chickens, Ducks, Geese and Turkeys. I will ‘Only’ discuss the breeds that I commonly raise and have had good success surviving Oklahoma’s hot dry summers and cold windy winters.

Chicks will start being available from about the third week of February.
Duck will start being available from about the first week of February.
Geese will start being available from about the last week of March.

There are a few breeds that are on the top of many growers must have list.

Chickens: White leghorns of Fog Horn Leghorn fame, are the choice of commercial egg producing farms.
white leghorn Type: White Leghorn
Egg Color: white, Egg Size: extra large, Egg Production: excellent
Meat Production: fair, Heat/cold Tolerance: Good
Disposition: poor, Weeks to Maturity: 18, Free-range: good
Will not go broody
Male Mature Weight: 6 lbs, Female Mature Weight: 4.5 lbs or less.

Rgode island Type: Rhode red, Egg Color: brown, Egg Size: extra large,
Egg Production: excellent, Heat/cold Tolerance: good
Disposition: good, Weeks to Maturity: 19, Free-range: good
Will not go broody, Bird Size: extra large
Male Mature Weight: 8.5 lbs, Female Mature Weight: 6.5 lbs or less

barred rock Type: Barred rock, Egg Color: brown, Egg Size: large
Egg Production: excellent, Meat Production: excellent
Heat/cold Tolerance: good, Disposition: good, Weeks to Maturity: 20
Free-range: good, Not very likely to go broody, Bird Size: large
Male Mature Weight: 9.5 lbs, Female Mature Weight: 7.5 lbs

Black Australorps Type: Black Australorps, Egg Color: brown, Egg Size: large
Egg Production: excellent, Meat Production: excellent
Heat/cold Tolerance: good, Disposition: good, Weeks to Maturity: 20
Free-range: excellent, Not likely to go broody, Bird Size: extra large
Male Mature Weight: 8.5 lbs, Female Mature Weight: 6.5 lbs

Buff Orpingtons Type: Buff Orpingtons Egg Color: brown, Egg Size: large
Egg Production: execellent Meat Production: excellent, Heat/cold Tolerance: good Disposition: good, Weeks to Maturity: 20, Free-range: good
Very Likely to go broody, Bird Size: extra large
Male Mature Weight: 10 lbs, Female Mature Weight: 8 lbs

Hint: Rooster(s) Are Not required for your pullets/hen to lay eggs. They are Only need if you want or need fertile eggs for hatching replacement chicks.

Ducks not anything like Daffy duck. Ducks are quite birds, can be housed with chickens.
white_pekin Type: White Pekin, excellent meat quality, Egg production excellent
Male and female are creamy white in color, yellow skinned, and very large breasted.
Male mature weight: 10 to 11 pounds, Females mature weigh: 8 to 9 pounds.
The easiest domestic ducks to pick and prepare for eating.

rouen Type: Rouen, attractive colorful ducks bear the name of the French city they originally came from.
Egg production: fair, excellent meat bird,
Male mature weight: 8 to 9 pounds, Females mature weight: 6 to 7 pounds.

Geese Geese are noisy and can become aggressive, can be housed with chickens.
toulouse_goose Type: Toulouse, Taking their name from a city in France, along with White Embdens are the most popular commercial geese sold in America.
Meat production: excellent all-dark meat, Egg production: fair
Male mature weight: 18 to 20 pounds, Female mature weight: 12 to 13 pounds.

Turkeys Are noisy birds and males (Toms) can become aggressive.
Turkeys ‘Should Not’ be housed with chickens.
white_turkey Type: White turkey, most common commercially grown turkey.
Meat production: White broad breasted turkeys are the most popular.
Egg production: poor
Easy to dress
Male mature weight: 45 pounds, Female mature weight 25 pounds.

broadbreasted_bronze_turkey Type: Broadbreasted Bronze
Meat production: excellent, Egg production: poor
Male mature weight 38 pounds, Female mature weight: 22 pounds
Stately lords of the barnyard, metallic sheen of the feathers changes from copper to bronze to burnished gold as the light moves across them. Four feet in length, six feet from wing tip to wing tip.

McMurray Hatchery link is provided as a reference source for learning about poultry breeds,. Here you will find a short description, pictures as well as other useful information on raising your birds.
$10.00 DIY Chicken Plucker
DIY Poultry Brooder

Not from the USA Please leave me comment about your home town and country.
If you see or read something you like Please Share By Re-blogging, Twitter or Email To A Friend.

Why is common sense so uncommon?
Don’t be Shy. Leave me your Comment(s)

Peppers – Chili – Capsicum In Your Home Garden

Short season home gardeners should be getting ready to plant your pepper seedling starter pots.
Every gardens soil and weather conditions Are Not suitable for growing peppers. Hot and very hot types are more difficult to grow successfully.

Pepper like Tomatoes and Eggplant are in the nightshade family and will not do well in cool wet growing conditions.
When daytime air temperatures rise above 90F(32C) or fall below 70F(21C) peppers will often stop setting blooms that produce fruit.
Nighttime temperatures below 60F(15.5C) or above 70F(21C) may cause blooms to drop off the pepper plants.

Two of the biggest mistakes many want to be pepper growers make are using the wrong pH potting soil mix and not keeping their starter pot soil warm.
Soil Thermometer is a must have gardening tool. If you don’t have one, consider buying a Stainless Steel Soil Thermometer. I have seen them advertised on Amazon and Ebay for as little as $8.50 – $10.00.

Pepper seed dislikes acid soils. Soils with a pH lower than 6.5 may cause your seed to fail to germinate. Soil pH of 7 to 7.5 is a good pH range to shoot for in your pepper patch.
Avoid soil mixes that contain peat/peat moss, do not use peat pellets or peat pots in an attempt to grow pepper seedlings. Even a small amount of peat in your potting mix can cause your soil pH to fall causing pepper seed to fail to germinate.

An interesting thing about germinating pepper seed is the hotter the pepper type the higher the soil must be for seed to germinate.
While Bell pepper seed may germinate fine at 70F in as little as 7 days,
Jalapeño require soil temperatures of 75F-80F and may require 30 days to germinate.
Habanero peppers germinate best at 85F-90F soil temperatures and have been know to take 3 or even 4 months to germinate.

For the reasons listed above I recommend the casual pepper grower purchase healthy pepper plants from your local nursery. However you must still provide a soil type that is beneficial to peppers to be successful.

As much as peppers love warm soils they are not very drought tolerant and will require an inch or more of rain or supplemental water through out the growing season. Container grown peppers may need watering everyday or two.

If you are container growing peppers, move then into a warm place when temperatures are forecast to drop below 55F.
Peppers are a very tender and temperatures below 40F have been know to kill pepper plants.

Feeding your peppers. Don’t over fertilize you pepper plants. Over use of nitrogen will make the pepper plants develop lush foliage at the expense of fruit production.
Peppers are light feeders. Work a little bit 5-10-10 fertilizer into the soil prior to transplanting, that’s probably sufficient. However you can also side-dress the plants with a light sprinkling of 5-10-10 when they began to bloom, this may give them a boost in producing abundant large healthy crops.

Not from the USA. Please leave me comment about your home town and country.

If you see or read something you like Please Share By Re-blogging, Twitter or Email To A Friend.

Why is common sense so uncommon?
Don’t be Shy. Leave me your Comment(s)

Okra – Flowers – Ornamental – Eatable Fruit Pods

Okra is among the most heat and drought tolerant vegetable species in the world and will tolerate soils with heavy clay and intermittent moisture.

okra Most gardeners grow okra for it’s eatable pods. Okra can be eaten pickled, boiled, fried coated with corn meal and is often added to soups, stew and gumbos. Pods are best harvested very small, no more than 3 or 4 inches long. Mature pods may exceed 8 inches in length.

Okra is a popular health food due to its high fiber, vitamin C, and folate content. Okra is also known for being high in antioxidants, is a good source of calcium and potassium.

Okra leaves may be cooked in a similar way to the greens of beets or dandelions. Since the entire plant is edible, young tender leaves may eaten raw in salads.

Okra varieties range in size form 3 to 7 foot tall. Pod color is normally green however you can also find purple (some say it’s color is red) pod varieties.
Common Varieties grown in the United states include:
*CLEMSON variety is dark green with angular pods. This okra takes less than two months to mature.
*EMERALD type is dark green, with smooth round pods.
*LEE is a spineless type known by its deep bright green, very straight angular pods.
*ANNIE OAKLEY is a hybrid, spineless kind of okra with bright green, angular pods. It takes less than two months from seeding to maturity.
*CHINESE Okra is a dark green type grown in California and reaches 10 to 13 inches in length. These extra-long okra pods are sometimes called “ladyfingers.”
*PURPLE Okra a rare variety you may see at peak times.

Okra as an ornamental flowering plant produces lovely Hollyhock ‘like’ flowers mostly in shades of yellow and whites.
yellow okra flowerwhite okra flower

Plant okra after your soil warms to 70F to 85F. Quick germination, soaked 8 to 12 hours prior to planting to a depth of 1 to 1 1/2 inches deep. Germination occurs in 7 to 12 days. Provide ample water for seedlings.
Space seeds 3 inches apart, thin to 9 to 10 inches after seedlings are 3 inches tall. Space sows 24 to 36 inches.

OKRA Nutrition value
serving size: 1 cup
calories: 31
fat: 0 g
carbs: 7 g
protein: 2 g
fiber: 3 g
Vitamin K: 66% RDA
Vitamin C: 35% RDA
folate: 22% RDA
thiamin: 13% RDA
manganese: 50% RDA
magnesium: 14% RDA
Calcium 8%
Iron 5%
Potassium 6%
Zinc 6%
Okra also contains beta carotene, lutein, zeaxanthin.

Not from the USA Please leave me comment about your home town and country.
If you see or read something you like Please Share By Re-blogging, Twitter or Email To A Friend.

Why is common sense so uncommon?
Don’t be Shy. Leave me your Comment(s)

Vegetables That Take Over Your Garden

Cucumber vines can spread 8 feet in every direction.
They are a warm weather vegetable that loves full sun.
Conserve space by training your vines to climb your fence or better yet build a decorative trellis.

Cucumber plants make two basic types of fruit, those for slicing and those for pickling. Pickling varieties seem to reach their peak faster than slicing varieties.
Depending on your variety, planting to your first harvest will be about 65 to 100 days.

Plant four or five cucumber seeds in 1 foot diameter circles(small hills) with hills 5 to 6 feet apart.
Keep soil evenly moist to prevent the fruit from becoming bitter.
Side dress cucumber plants about 4 weeks after planting. Use about one tablespoon of 5-10-10 or similar fertilizer per plant in a narrow band along each row or around hills.

Butternut squash, yellow summer squash and acorn squash. are warn season, full sun loving plants.
* Yellow summer squash will need 4 feet or more for its vine to spread for your best crop. Plant in hills spaced six feet apart.
* Butternut squash will spread 12 to 15 feet. Plant in hills 8 to 12 feet apart.
* Acorn squash squash will spread 10 to 12 feet. Plant in hills 6 to 10 feet apart.

Plant 5 or 6 seeds 1/2 – 3/4 inch deep in each hill. After seedlings set their first true leaves thin leaving your 3 best plants.
Keep soil evenly moist to produce large fruit.
Side dress plants about 4-6 weeks after planting. Use about one tablespoon of 5-10-10 or similar fertilizer per plant.

Home garden Pumpkin vineClick to enlarge picture Pumpkins come in many sizes and colors, however all of them are garden space hogs.
Pumpkins require a minimum of 50 to 100 square feet per hill. Plant seeds one inch deep, four or five seeds per hill. Allow 8 to 10 feet between hills or spaced in rows 10 to 15 feet apart. When the young plants are well established, thin each hill to the best two or three plants.

Water if a dry period occurs in early summer. Pumpkins tolerate short periods of hot, dry weather pretty well. However, to produce the largest fruits, water by applying at least 1 inch of water weekly.

To grow monster pumpkins that may weigh more than 100 pounds. Select one of the jumbo variety seed.
Plant in early June and allow 150 square feet or more per hill. Thin each hill to the best one or two plants.
Use about one tablespoon of 5-10-10 or similar fertilizer per plant every 4 weeks during your growing season.
High fertility, proper insect control and shallow cultivation are essential to grow monster pumpkins.

Remove the first two or three female flowers after the plants start to bloom so that the plants grow larger with more leaf surface before setting fruit.
Allow a single fruit to develop and pick off all female flowers that develop after this fruit has set on the plant.

Do not allow the vine to root down at the joints, developing fruit on these varieties develop so quickly and grow so large that they may actually break from the vine as they expand on a vine that is anchored to the ground.

Bees, that are necessary for pollinating squash and pumpkins, may be killed by insecticides. New blossoms open each day and bees land inside open blossoms, bees must be safe from contact with any insecticides.

Hint: How to Identify female from male pumpkin flowers.
Click to enlarge picture
pumpkin flowers

Melons like watermelon, cantaloupe, musk melon and honeydew are all space and water hungry plants.
All like full sun locations and warm weather. Soil temperatures should be 70F to 85F at planting time.
Plant 5 or 6 melon seed on hills 1/2 to 3/4 inch deep. Space hills 6 to 8 feet apart. Thin seedlings keeping 2 or 3 of your strongest plants.

Provide 1 inch or more of water weekly and side dress with about 1 tablespoon of NPK 5-10-10 fertilizer at about 40-45 day intervals throughout the growing season to produce an abundant crop of melons.

Not from the USA Please leave me comment about your home town and country.

If you see or read something you like Please Share By Re-blogging, Twitter or Email To A Friend.

Why is common sense so uncommon?
Don’t be Shy. Leave me your Comment(s)

Asparagus – Luxury Food You Can Grow In Your Home Garden

Once established Asparagus is easy to grow and harvest and a true luxury make you feel good food. Plant one or more rows and you will be harvesting Asparagus for many years with a minimum of effort.

Preparing your Soil for planting asparagus.
Shoot for a soil pH of about 7.0. Research shows that lower pHs soils are more conducive to growing Asparagus. Asparagus prefers sandy soil, anything you can do to raise the organic matter of the soil before planting will also pay big benefits. Adding compost and well rotted manure is probably the easiest way to do this.

Choosing your variety Varieties like Mary, Martha or Waltham Washington. Are unimproved, non-hybrid varieties. What hybrid means in the case of asparagus is “all-male” plants.
A non-hybrid will have about equal number of male and female plants. Female plants produce larger spears, but they also produce fewer spears.
Hybrid asparagus, Jersey Giant, Jersey Knight, Jersey Supreme and Jersey Gem are good choices.
UC 157 is widely grown in warmer areas, places like California and Mexico.

Asparagus crown needs to be planted deep. It is recommend using year old nursery grown crowns.
Asparagus needs to be planted in a trench. In sandy soil, that trench needs to be 8-10 inches deep.
Clay soils should have shallow trenches, about 6-8 inches in deep.
Rows are planted from 4 to 5 feet apart. Crowns should be planted 8-12 inches apart. Adding a little phosphate fertilizer is recommended and should be put in the trenches before the crowns are planted.
Be careful that the fertilizer you use does not also have enough potassium or nitrogen to burn the crown. Triple super phosphate, NPK 0-46-0, is a good choice.

Hint: Do not fill the trenches in completely. The best approach is to cover the crowns with about 3 inches of soil. Let the new plants grow through that soil for about 6 weeks and add another 3 inches of soil. Wait until the plants have gone dormant in the late fall or in the spring before growth begins to finish filling the trenches.

Do not harvest your asparagus the year you plant it or the year following planting. Asparagus plants needs to grow 3 years to become established to produce healthy crowns.
Year 3 after transplanting you can harvest the beds for about two weeks. Harvest, spears between 8 and 10 inches long. Harvest all of the spears that come up during the harvest period, even the small diameter ones call “whips”.

Fertilizing asparagus Asparagus is a heavy feeder of potassium and uses very little phosphorus. Asparagus is a light nitrogen use plant.

White asparagus White asparagus is not a variety. It is asparagus spears grown in the absence of sunlight so that chlorophyll does not develop. White asparagus does have a slightly sweeter taste and has less fiber than green asparagus.
The traditional way to grow white asparagus mound dirt up over the rows. Harvest when you see an asparagus tip just cracking through the soil. Dig the spear out of the dirt and cut it off.
An alternate way to raise white asparagus was developed by Dr. Jim Motes, an Extension Specialist from Oklahoma State University, is to place bent iron hoops over rows and cover them with thick black plastic.
Caution Be careful using this method. Temperatures under the black plastic can quickly rise to the point it will ‘burn’ your asparagus spears.

Not from the USA Please leave me comment about your home town and country.
If you see or read something you like Please Share By Re-blogging, Twitter or Email To A Friend.

Why is common sense so uncommon?
Don’t be Shy. Leave me your Comment(s)

Peas In Your Home Garden

Peas aka garden peas, shelling peas, snap peas, sugar peas, sugar snap peas, snow peas, Chinese peas, edible-podded peas.

Peas best in full sun to maximize your pea crop but will tolerate light shade. May benefit from light afternoon shade in the warmer parts of the southern US states.

Peas prefer a well drained soil with average fertility, high in organic matter with pH 6.0 to 7.0. Peas are widely adapted, but prefer cool, damp weather. Good soil structure is important.
Peas can tolerate moderate freezes and are less sensitive to freezing in spring planted crops than in fall. Light damage to shoots can actually encourage more secondary shoots and result in more pods per plant.

Plant peas from seed. Germination temperatures of 40F to 85F. Optimum temperature is around 75F.
Days to emergence is 9 days when soil is 60F. 13 days at 50F and may take as long as 4 to 5 weeks at 40F.

Sow seed in spring as soon as you can work the soil, as early as late March or early April depending on how quickly your soil warms and dries. Later plantings made when the soil is warmer (60F or more) often catch up quickly with earlier plantings. Use raised beds if your soil is slow to drain.

Make additional plantings through early March to mid-May, or plant varieties with different maturity dates to lengthen your harvest period.

Plant seeds 1 to 2 inches deep, 1 to 4 inches apart in rows 18 inches apart. Or sow about 1 inch apart in a 3 inch wide band (about 25 seeds per foot). Shallow planting is best when soils are cool and wet. Plant deeper if soil is dry. A quick way to seed is to make a furrow or trench with a hoe, place seed in the furrow, cover and firm. Do not thin.

Erect trellis for tall growing, vining types. Use chicken wire, brush or other suitable trellis material. If trellising, increase row spacing to 4 to 6 feet.

Keep soil moist, but avoid heavy watering during flowering, which can interfere with pollination.
Intercrop peas with fast growing cool season crops such as spinach or radishes. After final harvest, follow with late planted squash or fall harvested cool season crops such as broccoli, leeks or potatoes.

Sow fall crops about 8 to 10 weeks before first frost date. Fall crops can be disappointing if hot weather persists. Powdery mildew resistant varieties are best for fall planting.

Do not use high nitrogen fertilizers. Too much nitrogen will result in lush foliage but poor flowering and fruiting. Inoculation with rhizobia bacteria may be beneficial if peas have not been grown in the past.

Recommended Varieties for northern growers.

Early shell:
Knight
Little Marvel
Maestro
Novella II
Olympia
Progress No. 9
Sparkle

Late shell:
Bolero
Frosty
Green Arrow
Lincoln
Mr. Big
Wando

Snow pea:
Dwarf Gray Sugar
Little Sweetie
Mammoth Melting Sugar
Oregon Sugar Pod II

Edible pod (Snap) pea:
Early Snap
Sugar Ann
Sugar Snap
Super Sugar Mel

Garden Pea varieties

Not from the USA. Please leave me comment about your home town and country.

If you see or read something you like Please Share By Re-blogging, Twitter or Email To A Friend.

Why is common sense so uncommon?
If Common Sense was lard, many people couldn’t grease a biscuit pan.

Don’t be Shy. Leave me your Comment(s).

Pole Beans And Bush Beans – Easy To Grow – Taste Great

Beans are easy to grow. Beans fix atmospheric nitrogen, enriching the soil, and beans, especially dry beans, are nutritious, high in vegetable protein, fiber, iron and essential minerals.

In general terms there are three types of beans.
* Bush types that require little or no vine support.
* Pole types that require poles or trellis supporting the vines. Some varieties can easily grow vines ten feet in length. Strong vine support is required.
* Runner beans produce long vines, up to ten feet, a trellis may be beneficial.

Extend your bean harvest by successive planting:
* Green bush beans varieties every 10 to 14 days until the middle of July.
* Runner beans produce long vines, up to ten feet, a trellis may be beneficial.
* Plant pole beans, lima beans, shell beans and field (dry) beans. Plant only once, since they require a full season to mature.
* Keep your green beans harvested. This will encourage them to bloom and produce more beans.
String less eatable pod types can be harvested at any size. Young tender green beans go well in salads.
Hint: Blanch green beans for 3-5 minutes in boiling water. Cool in ice water. Cut/snap into bite size pieces before adding them to your salad.

Beans grow best in slightly acidic to neutral soil, pH between 6 and 7. Clay or silt loams are better suited to bean production than sandy soils.
Incorporate well rotted manure or compost at planting time to increase soil organic matter.

Beans require full sun for good growth and large crops. Although they will
grow in a wide variety of soils, a sandy loam is best. Beans, especially limas, germinate slowly and grow poorly in cool, wet soil.
* Plant beans when your soil temperature is between 60F and 85F. Optimum temperature is 80F.

Plant bush beans 1 to 1/2 inches deep and space 2 inches apart in rows spaced 18 to 24 inches apart.
Plant lima beans 1 inch deep and space seed 4 to 6 inches apart.
Plant pole and Runner beans 1 inch deep and space seed 4 inches apart. Space slender poles 12 inches apart or set up a sturdy trellis system with post spaced 10 feet apart.

Beans need 1 inch or more of water weekly. Once blooms set, keep soil slightly damp. Do not over water beans don’t like setting in wet soil.

Dry beans (shell, field, and soybeans) should dry on the vine as long as possible (until the first heavy frost, if necessary) before threshing
and storage.
Pulling the plants and leaving them in the sun, laid out on a barn floor, or hung in small bunches from a rafter for 2 to 3 days will hasten drying. A thoroughly mature bean is hard.
Give one the “bite test” before putting dry beans into storage. A roperly-dried bean is nearly impossible to dent.

Store well dried (and insect free) beans in a can or jar with a tight cover to keep out insects and rodents. Store them in a cool, dry, dark storage area.

Hint: Food safety
Home canned beans are one of the most common sources of botulism poisoning. (Properly prepared pickled beans, because they contain so much acid from vinegar, do not cause this poisoning.)
If you wish to put up jars of beans, you must follow canning instructions exactly, including the use of a pressure canner to process the jars. If you do not have a pressure canner, plan to freeze your bean crop.

Caution: Of all common beans, only kidney beans are considered toxic when raw.
Both red kidney beans and white kidney beans (sometimes called “cannellini”) contain toxins that are denatured during cooking. It’s unlikely that anyone would actually try to eat a truly raw dried bean, but some people try sprouting their seeds, while others may be impatient with a pot of chili that’s taking a long time to cook.
Kidney beans are not suitable for sprouting, and they must be cooked thoroughly.

Bean Types

Scarlet runner beans (Phaseolus coccineus) produce long vines, up to ten feet, and require a trellis. Their abundant red, pink, or bicolor blooms are attractive to hummingbirds, and this plant is often used as an ornamental. Pods have a rich, delicious flavor, and should be picked when fairly short, between four and six inches, used as snap beans. Once the pods become too tough for snap bean use, the immature seed can be shelled out, or allowed to mature and dry. Dried runner bean seed can be cooked like dried common bean seed.

Soybeans or Vegetable soybeans” or “edamame” are varieties selected for use as fresh shelled beans. Culture is similar to that of common bean culture. Plants are tall, up to three feet, but sturdy and upright, requiring no support. Inoculation with Rhizobium may improve plant performance and yield.
Soybean pods should be picked when plump seeds have caused them to bulge, but while still green. The hairy pods are not eaten, but typically the beans are cooked in boiling water while still in the pod, then shelled out after cooking.
Do not eat raw soybeans.

Lima beans are an old fashioned garden treat, shelled out or allowed to mature and dry. Limas require warm soils, warm weather, and a somewhat longer growing season than common beans.
Choose either pole or bush plant habits and grow limas just as you would common beans.
While the ideal soil for common beans is a well drained clay loam, lima bean plants perform best in a coarse textured, sandier soil. Harvest for fresh shell beans when the seed color has changed from green to cream or white, and the pods are starting to bulge in the shape of the seed.
Dried limas, allow the pods to dry completely on the vine then thresh as you would common beans.

Yard long beans are also known as “asparagus beans,” and are popular in Asian dishes. This species requires vary warm weather to produce pods, and the pods can suffer chilling injury from temperatures in the forties. The very long vine of this plant sometimes more than ten feet may require support.
Some varieties produce pods up to 18 inches, others more than two feet. Watch the developing pods, which may appear puffy or inflated while elongating. They will appear tight or constricted when they are over mature, so pick when they are long, tender, and slightly puffy looking, before seeds expand.

Blackeye peas and cowpeas are the same species as yard long beans, and have similar requirements for warm soils and warm air temperatures. These varieties are mostly grown for the mature dried seed, and usually are bush types, rather than tall vines. A short season variety to try is ‘California Blackeye 46.’

Fava beans unlike other beans, require conditions similar to those needed to grow peas. Cool temperatures with highs only into the low eighties.
Grow Fava beans as you would peas, planting early in the spring. The sturdy, erect plants do not need support. The pods will first be held upright, then begin to droop as the seed matures. Picked green, as the seed starts to bulge a bit in the pod, favas should be shelled from the pod, then the whitish outer coating of the seed removed either before or after cooking. Fully mature favas are also used as dry beans.

Caution: Some people are sensitive to raw favas and can become quite ill if they eat them. Although the sensitivity to the raw seed is most common among people of Mediterranean ancestry, it’s impossible to predict who will be affected. Favas should always be well cooked before consumption.

Hyancinth bean with its beautiful purple flowers, is most commonly grown as an ornamental vine. The green pods can be eaten, as they are in India. Harvest as for snap beans, when the pods are juicy and tender. Caution Always cook Hyancinth beans since the seed can contain toxins that are deactivated in cooking.

Not from the USA. Please leave me comment about your home town and country.

If you see or read something you like Please Share By Re-blogging, Twitter or Email To A Friend.

Why is common sense so uncommon?
If Common Sense was lard, many people couldn’t grease a biscuit pan.
Don’t be Shy. Leave me your Comment(s).

Potatoes or is it Potato’s

FYI: I seldom grow potatoes. My alkaline clay based soil and our hot dry summers are not well suited to growing potatoes.
When I do plant potatoes, I plant in large containers, things like 6 gallon an larger containers. Under these conditions I can control soil pH, making my soil an acid base soil as well as controlling soil moisture. Container growing also allows me to provide shade protection from our late afternoon sun.

Potatoes are easy to grow, however, to be successful you must do your part. It is a very hands on project.
Seed potatoes are not cheap. I find seed potatoes selling from about $7.50 to $10.00 a pound, usually you must order a minimum of 2 pounds of seed potatoes. Don’t forget, if you mail order them you will be charged for UPS, USPS or Fedex shipping cost on top of your $10.00 seed potato investment.
I recommend that if possible buying your seed potatoes from a local nursery or big box store and save shipping cost.

Cornell university said:
Potatoes require full sun, at least 6 hours of full sun exposure each day.

They require an acid soil that is well drained. The soil should be light, deep, loose soil, high in organic matter.
Unlike most vegetables, potatoes perform best in an acid soil with pH 4.8 – 5.5. (Scab is less of a problem at low pH. If pH is more than 6.0, use scab-resistant varieties.) Needs plentiful, consistent moisture.

Growing is easy if you have the right site and soil.
Pests aren’t usually a bad problem in garden settings.
Height: 1.5 to 3 feet,
Spread: 1.5 to 3 feet
Flower color: violet, Flowers are relatively inconspicuous.

Grown from seed potatoes, tubers grown the previous season.
Germination temperature: 40F. Do not plant seed potatoes until soil reaches 40 F.
Sprouts from seed potatoes should emerge in 2 to 4 weeks depending on soil temperature.

Potatoes perform best in areas where summers are cool (65 F to 70 F), but are widely adapted.
Potatoes require a well drained soil. If your soil is poorly drained or a heavy clay, consider using raised beds. Adding organic matter, compost, cover crops, well rotted manure or leaves, is a good way to improve soil before growing potatoes.
Organic matter sources high in nitrogen (such as manure) and nitrogen fertilizer can encourage lush foliage at the expense of tuber production.
Potatoes perform best in acid soil with pH 4.8 – 5.5.
Use scab-resistant varieties with pH above 6.0.

Buy certified disease free seed potatoes from garden centers or through online or mail order catalogs for best results. Avoid planting potatoes from the supermarket because they may have been treated with sprout inhibitors. They may be prone to disease.
Cut seed potatoes that are larger than a chicken egg into pieces about 1 inch across or slightly larger. Each piece should have at least one “eye” (the bud where the stem will grow from) better yet two eyes. Egg size and smaller tubers can be planted whole.

Cut seed potato pieces are allowed to cure for a few days to a few weeks before planting. This is because the cut potatoes need high humidity, plenty of oxygen and temperatures between 50 F and 65 F to heal quickly. If conditions are not right, uncured seed potatoes will rot in the ground.

Hint: Put potatoes into a large brown paper grocery bag and fold the top closed. Keep the bag at room temperature for 2 or 3 days, then shake the bag to unstick pieces that may have stuck together. Let sit for another 2 to 3 days before planting.
For faster emergence, keep the bag of cut potatoes at room temperature until sprouts appear. Some varieties are slow to break dormancy and benefit from a 2- to 4-week “pre-warming” before planting. Others sprout in just a few days.

Plant about 2 to 4 weeks before your last frost date. The soil temperature must be at least 40F.Avoid planting where you've grown potatoes, tomatoes, peppers or eggplant in the past 2 years.

Common way to plant potatoes is to dig a shallow trench about 4 inches deep with a hoe. Place the seed potato pieces with their eyes up (cut sides down) about 8 to 12 inches apart in the trench, and replace soil. Space trenches about 2 to 3 feet apart. Stems and foliage should emerge in about 2 to 4 weeks, depending on soil temperature.

When the plants are about 6 to 8 inches tall, “hill” the potatoes by hoeing soil loosely around the base of the plants to within about an inch of the lower leaves from both sides of the row. Repeat in about 2 to 3 weeks. You may want to make additional hillings, gradually building a 6 to 8 inch ridge down the row. (Hilling keeps the developing potatoes from being exposed to sun).
*Alternatively, snuggle seed pieces shallowly into the soil and cover with a thick layer of clean straw or other weed free mulch. Add more mulch as needed to keep light from reaching potatoes. (A foot or more of mulch may be required.) Tubers grown this way can be easily harvested by pulling back the mulch after the plants die.
*Method 3. If you have excellent potato growing soil is to plant seed potatoes 7 to 8 inches deep and skip hilling or deep mulching. The potatoes are slower to emerge, but this method requires less effort during the growing season.

Potatoes need at least 1 inch of water per week from either rainfall or deep watering. Mulching helps retain moisture. Keeping the soil from drying out will reduce scab problems.

Prevent Early blight and Late blight by use certified seed. Avoid wetting plant foliage if possible. Water early in the day so above ground plant parts will dry as quickly as possible.
*Blight resistant or moderately resistant varieties include Allegany, Elba, Rosa and Sebago.
*Scab resistant varieties: Chieftan, Norland, Russet Burbank, Russet Rural and Superior.

Not from the USA. Please leave me comment about your home town and country.

If you see or read something you like Please Share By Re-blogging, Twitter or Email To A Friend.

Why is common sense so uncommon?
Don’t be Shy. Leave me your Comment(s).

Carrots, Parsnips, Radishes, Turnips, And Rutabagas

Carrots, parsnips, radishes, turnips, and rutabagas all have similar cultural requirements and grow in cool weather. Since they are hardy, they may be planted early in the spring, and left in the garden until fall. In addition, tops of beets and turnips are commonly used as cooked greens and can be harvested while the plants are young.

Root crops like to be grown in full sun but most will tolerate light afternoon share.
Seed Germination temperature is 50F to 85F. Most will germinate at temperatures as low a 40F. They will germinate in about a week at 75F.

Soil preparation is very important in achieving success with the root crops. They grow best in a deep, rock free, loose well drained soil that retains moisture.
Root crops do not grow well in very acid soils.
Nitrogen recommendations for beets, carrots, parsnips, and rutabagas are about 3/4 to 1 cup of urea/100 sq. ft. Apply half during seed bed preparation and sidedress the other half in mid-season.
Radishes and turnips, nitrogen recommendations are about 1/2 cup urea/100 sq. ft. to be broadcast and incorporated before planting.
You can improve your soil by adding well rotted manure or compost. Do not use fresh manure as it can stimulate branching of the roots, compromising the quality of the crop and may increase weed problems.
Till the soil deeply, then smooth the surface in order to prepare a good seedbed.

Plant radishes and turnips beginning about April 15 for a spring crop, and again August 1 for a fall crop.
Start planting carrots and beets beginning April 15.
Plant parsnips beginning May 1.
For a continuous supply of young carrots, make two or three plantings spaced two or three weeks apart.
Rutabagas require a long growing season and should be planted May 15 for a fall crop.

Carrots, parsnips, radishes, and turnips should be thinned to 2-3 inch spacing. Rutabagas should be thinned to a 8 inch spacing.

Root crops need at least 1 inch of water from rainfall or irrigation each week during the growing season. Always soak the soil thoroughly when watering. Your soil should remain ‘damp’ not wet.

Grow Carrots in containers
University of Minnesota
Cornell university
University of Illinois
Utah state university

Not from the USA. Please leave me comment about your home town and country.

If you see or read something you like Please Share By Re-blogging, Twitter or Email To A Friend.

Why is common sense so uncommon?
Don’t be Shy. Leave me your Comment(s).