Tomato’s From Seed to Your Table

Bamboo Tomato Trellis

1. Don’t Crowd Seedlings.
Don’t Let Seedlings Grow Into Each Other. If you are starting tomatoes from seed, be sure to give the seedlings room to branch out. Close conditions inhibit their growth, so transplant them as soon as they get their first true leaves and move them into 4″ pots about 2 weeks after that.

2. Provide lots of light.
Tomato seedlings will need either strong, direct sunlight or 14-18 hours under grow lights. Place the young plants only a couple of inches from florescent grow lights. Plant your tomatoes outside in the sunniest part of your vegetable plot.

3. Put a fan on your seedlings.
It seems tomato plants need to move and sway in the breeze, to develop strong stems. Provide a breeze by turning a fan on them for 5-10 minutes twice a day.

4. Preheat the soil in your garden.
Using Black Plastic to Warm the Soil. Tomatoes love heat. Cover the planting area with black or red plastic a couple of weeks before you intend to plant. Those extra degrees of warmth will translate into earlier tomatoes.

5. Bury them deep.
Bury tomato plants deeper than they come in the pot, all the way up to a few top leaves. Tomatoes are able to develop roots all along their stems. You can either dig a deeper hole or simply dig a shallow tunnel and lay the plant sideways. It will straighten up and grow toward the sun. Be careful not to drive your pole or cage into the stem.

6. Mulch Later.
Straw Makes a Great Vegetable Garden Mulch. Mulch after the ground has had a chance to warm up. Mulching does conserve water and prevents the soil and soil born diseases from splashing up on the plants, but if you put it down too early it will also shade and therefore cool the soil. Try using plastic mulch for heat lovers like tomatoes and peppers. (See Tip #4)

Vertical Tomato Trellis

7. Remove the Bottom Leaves.
Tomato Leaf Spot Diseases. Once the tomato plants are about 3′ tall, remove the leaves from the bottom 1′ of stem. These are usually the first leaves to develop fungus problems. They get the least amount of sun and soil born pathogens can be unintentionally splashed up onto them. Spraying weekly with compost tea also seems to be effective at warding off fungus diseases.

Tomato Cage

8. Pinch & Prune for More Tomatoes
Tomato Suckers in the Joint of Branches. Pinch and remove suckers that develop in the crotch joint of two branches. They won’t bear fruit and will take energy away from the rest of the plant. But go easy on pruning the rest of the plant. You can thin leaves to allow the sun to reach the ripening fruit, but it’s the leaves that are photosynthesizing and creating the sugars that give flavor to your tomatoes.

9. Water the Tomato Plants Regularly.
Blossom End Rot. Water deeply and regularly while the plants are developing. Irregular watering, (missing a week and trying to make up for it), leads to blossom end rot and cracking. Once the fruit begins to ripen, lessening the water will coax the plant into concentrating its sugars. Don’t withhold water so much that the plants wilt and become stressed or they will drop their blossoms and possibly their fruit.

10. Getting Them to Set Tomatoes.
Successive Ripening of Cherry Tomatoes. Determinate type tomatoes tend to set and ripen their fruit all at about the same time, making a large quantity available when you’re ready to make sauce. You can get indeterminate type tomatoes to set fruit earlier by pinching off the tips of the main stems in early summer.

Finding More Help
The Bad News is there’s more than 10 or 15 different tomato diseases, bacterial and virus that can effect home gardener tomato crops.

Blossom end rot

Powdery mildew

The Good News is most tomato diseases, bacterial and virus infections can be easily treated if properly identified and treated in a timely manner.

Iowa state university link is for those of you that garden in the northern 1/2 of the U.S. and the University of Texas link provides information that most often effect southern state tomato gardens.

No matter where you live both sites have a huge amount of useful information on Identifying and treating tomato diseases. Don’t be discouraged or intimidated by the sheer numbers of tomato diseases. I’m pretty sure you will not suffer from all of them this year. in fact, insect control very well maybe your biggest problem in a home garden.

Iowa State University Contains Pictures, description, Control and Treatment of tomato disease, bacterial and virus infections.

Texas A and M University Contains Pictures, description, Control and Treatment of tomato disease, bacterial and virus infections.

Insect control just like disease control starts with properly identifying the insect(s) that are causing your problems.

Adult potato beetle

Potato beetle larva

Colorado State University link will help you identify and control some of the most common tomato insect pest.

Texas A and M University link will help you identify and control some of the most common tomato insect pest.

University of Kentucky College of Agriculture contains a lot of useful information on identifying and control of the Colorado Potato Beetle. This insect pest will attack Tomato’s, Egg Plants and Peppers as well as Potato’s.

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Cabbage Patch |-Doll-| Family Reunion

Stop it, stop making that ugly face. Cabbage and all it’s family members taste good and are good for you. Cruciferous vegetables (cole vegetables) cabbage, cauliflower, collards, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kale, kohlrabi, mustard and turnip greens.

Cole crops will tolerate some shade but full sun is always preferable. Cole crops will grow better in heavier, cooler soils than most warm season crops.
Cole crops are heavy feeders and do best in a deep, fertile soil enriched with plenty of organic matter. Because cole crops can easily become deficient in minor elements, at least part of the fertilizer material should be composted manure or composted vegetable matter to ensure a supply of these nutrients. Cauliflower demands the most exacting soil and fertility requirements to produce large firm heads.

Planting and Culture Most growers grow cabbage(green and red), cauliflower, broccoli and Brussels sprouts from spring transplants rather than seeding them directly in the garden. Fall crops may be seeded directly into the garden in June and July for a Fall crop. Quality transplant seedlings are a vital key to a successful crop. To prevent premature flower stalk formation, keep the seedlings growing above 60º F. This is particularly true for broccoli and cauliflower. A good seedling transplant will be 5 to 6 weeks old, sturdy with good color.

Cabbage plants can withstand very low temperatures down to 10º to 15º F for a night or two, broccoli and cauliflower are not nearly so cold resistant.

Harvest Cabbage when the head is very firm. Springy heads are not mature. Harvest Cauliflower heads when they reach a diameter of 5 to 8 inches and before the segments begin to separate. To get pure white heads, exclude light. Tie the outer leaves over the developing head with rubber bands or clothespins and keep them tied until harvest. Do not be concerned if some light gets through and discolors the head the eating quality is not affected.

Harvest Broccoli while the head is still compact and before the small flower buds open up to show yellow. Head diameter will range from 4 to 8 inches. After this center head is harvested side shoots (heads) of 2 to 3 inches will develop.

Brussels sprouts Small, cabbage-like sprouts develop along the thick stem, maturing first at the base of the plant. As the sprouts enlarge, remove the large leaves between the sprouts. Pinch out the growing tip of the plants in early September to hasten maturity. Harvest the sprouts when they are firm and before they open up. A light frost or two improves their flavor.

Harvest kale any time leaves are large enough for intended use. Tender young leaves are best for salad, older leaves are better cooked. Frost improves the flavor of kale.

Don’t over look planting collards, mustard and turnips when you plant your Cole Spring and Fall garden.

Don’t over cook any of the Cole vegetable. No matter what method you choose, boiling, broiling stir frying or steaming, Do Not Over Cook Cole vegetables.

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Home Grown Lettuce – Best Salad You Will Ever Taste

leaf lettuce

Source University of Illinois Extension Lettuce is a cool weather vegetable that thrives when the average daily temperature is between 60 and 70°F. Plant in early spring or late summer. Some types and varieties of lettuce withstand heat better than others.

Leaf lettuce, the most widely adapted of all the Lettuce types, produces crisp leaves loosely arranged on the stalk. Romaine types form a upright, elongated head. Butterhead varieties are generally small, loose heading types that have tender, soft leaves with a delicate sweet flavor.

In my opinion, Crisphead varieties like iceberg commonly sold at supermarkets are tasteless, worthless and a waste of time and space to grow.

Some Recommended Varieties
Green Leaf
Black-seeded Simpson (earliest to harvest)
Grand Rapids (frilly edges; good for coldframes, greenhouse, garden)
Oak Leaf (resistant to tipburn; good for hot weather)
Red Leaf
Red Fire (ruffles with red edge – slow to bolt)
Red Sails (slowest bolting red leaf lettuce)
Ruby (darkest red of all – resistant to tipburn)
Romaine
Cimmaron (unique, dark red leaf)
Green Towers (early – dark green, large leaves)
Paris Island (long – standing)

Northern Climates can plant lettuce in both spring and late summer. Southern climates lettuce planting is best done in late Summer or early Fall. Two or more successive plantings at 7 to 10 day intervals provide a continuous supply of lettuce.

Harvesting and Storage
Leaf lettuce may be cut whenever it is large enough to use. Cutting every other plant at ground level gives the remaining plants more space. Leaf lettuce reaches maximum size (6 to 12 ounces) in 50 to 60 days. Butterhead varieties form small, loose heads that weigh 4 to 8 ounces at harvest (60 to 70 days).

To store lettuce, wash, drip dry and place in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. Lettuce keeps best at 32°F and high (96%) humidity.

I planted my lettuce carefully following the seed package instructions.
What went wrong?
Failure of seeds to germinate is almost always caused by insufficient moisture. Take extra care to keep the seedbed moist, but not soggy, until the seedlings emerge.

Formation of seed stalks is caused by warm temperatures. If seed stalks begin to form, harvest your lettuce immediately and store it in the refrigerator.

In overly warm/hot weather Lettuce may become bitter. Harvest wash and store the leaves in the refrigerator for a day or two. Much of the bitterness will disappear.

From my for what it’s worth department.
Nutrition Facts (One cup raw leaf lettuce, chopped)
Calories 9
Dietary Fiber 1.3
Protein 1 gram
Carbohydrates 1.34 grams
Vitamin A 1456 IU
Vitamin C 13.44
Calcium 20.16
Iron 0.62
Potassium 162.4 mg

Don’t ruin the flavor of your garden fresh lettuce covering it with a large amount of strong flavored/tasting supermarket dressings. Try one of these light flavored vinaigrette style dressings.

Red and Yellow Pepper Vinaigrette
1 small yellow bell pepper, finely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
1 small red bell pepper, finely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
4 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons warm water
pinch of sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
In a medium bowl, whisk together all ingredients until combined well. This vinaigrette will keep, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for 3 days. Recipe may be doubled. Makes one cup.

Citrus Vinaigrette
1/4 cup fresh orange juice (juice of one small orange)
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons canola oil
1/2 teaspoon coarse Kosher salt (1/4 teaspoon table salt)
Freshly ground black pepper
Combine the juices and salt and pepper. Slowly whisk in oils until incorporated. A blender or food processor may also be used. Pour into a glass jar and seal. Serve over your favorite salad greens. The vinaigrette will keep, tightly covered, for a week in the refrigerator. To warm cold vinaigrette, place jar in a bowl of hot tap water for a few minutes.

Mustard Chive Vinaigrette
1 tablespoon grainy Dijon-style mustard
black pepper freshly ground to taste
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh chives
2 tablespoons white vinegar
1 tablespoon water
2 teaspoons honey
1/4 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons olive oil
Using a whisk or fork, in a small bowl combine all ingredients except the oil. Slowly add the oil, whisking vigorously, until the vinaigrette is emulsified. Pour over your favorite salad greens and toss. Store remaining vinaigrette in the refrigerator, in a tightly sealed glass jar, for up to one week. To warm cold vinaigrette, place jar in a small bowl of hot tap water for a few minutes. Makes 1/2 cup.

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UK Style – Growing Micro-Salad Greens

Grin … I like it, I will use it often I’m sure. Swedish Language Council unveil it’s list of new Swedish words. Among them was a term Swedes began using in 2012. “ogooglebar” or “ungoogleable.

Source Lia Leendertz and Mark Diacono How to grow flavoursome{British Spell Oddly} micro greens

Growing micro-greens might be better suited for a Fall and Winter project. However micro-greens will be a welcome addition to your salad anytime of the year. Here are a few hints to get the most from your micro-greens.

Micro greens are just tiny seedlings of plants we usually harvest when they are fully grown. They are sown into compost and grown in light like any normal seedling, but harvested just a week or so after germination when they’ve produced their first pair of true leaves.
The plants that work best as micro greens are those with intense flavour and/or colour. Coriander, basil, fennel, radish and the oriental leaves are all great to try. {Any strong bitter green works well as a flavor accent to your salad.} Almost all herbs work equally well.

Micro-greens are delicate, not an ingredient for long, slow cooking, but more for adding at the last moment or add a little sprinkle as garnish of that special taste.

Micro-greens can be grown in your garden soil, raised beds and in larger size containers. Don’t allow your soil to become dry. Seedlings like and need a slightly moist warm soil for best germination rate. Not Wet or Cool Soil!

Coriander
There’s nothing subtle about coriander, a pungent, leafy herb which is the garnish of choice for bold and full flavoured Indian and Asian cuisines. Grown as micro greens, it delivers that punchy, aromatic, savoury flavour in even stronger bursts. It has everything we love about coriander.
Hint Use to provide a punchy garnish and flash of bright green to finish Indian and Asian dishes, or mix it into guacamole.

Fennel
Savoury, aniseed fennel, high in vitamin C, potassium and folic acid. If you grow it as a row of tiny, feathery leaves, cut before their prime, you will obviously not get the succulent bulb that forms over a summer of growth, but you will have that aniseed flavour, fast and hassle free. Fennel particularly loves white fish, so sprinkle it onto pan fried or baked fish to finish it. It’s also great sprinkled over a fruit salad or with cheese.

Fish Recipe, Coriander micro greens on baked mackerel{or the fish of the day that you and your family likes}

The fresh, strong taste of coriander micro greens works beautifully with this oily fish.
2 whole mackerel, gutted and cleaned
2 bay leaves
Dash of olive oil
Handful of coriander micro greens
Preheat the oven to 190C/375F/Gas 5.
* Lay a bay leaf along the inside of each fish and rub a little olive oil over the skin. Place on a greased baking tray and bake in the oven for 25 minutes until the skin is browned and the flesh is cooked. Sprinkle generously with the coriander micros and eat immediately with a garden fresh green salad.

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